Answers to the most often asked questions about Vanlife

Van Life - The not so fancy but very frugal answers to common questions.

Sunset in the Bears Ears National Monument a few days ago.

After a successful first trip to Patagonia, I arrived at my parents house two weeks ago and promptly started the washing machine. I hadn't really laundered my clothes in the 5 weeks I’d been gone, but that wasn't because I didn't need to, it was because I’m frugal. Well, that, and I allow myself to stretch the boundaries of personal hygiene when I’m traveling with my van or backpack. I consider it an important aspect of maintaining a comfortable, stress free existence. If I worried about how I looked or how I smelled, this life wouldn't really be feasible and I can’t move out of the van just yet. I’m not ready to give up my free roaming, lease free, traveling way of life, although at some point, I’d like to have an address. But I don't make enough money to travel and live someplace with an address, not yet anyway. So, with that…I made use of my parents comfy home and washed all of my clothes and bedsheets.

I moved back into my van a week or so later and have been making my way from Wisconsin to Oregon. I’ve been on the road for two weeks and just took my fourth shower at an Aquatic Center in Moab, UT. It felt so GOOD!!! Over the last 1600 miles I’ve been thinking about the questions I’ve gotten over the years pertaining to the logistics of van life. I thought I might write down my usual responses so you could plan better for YOUR upcoming move into van life!

The entrance to my humble abode. 

Where do you use the bathroom?

One of the most important and commonly asked questions. There are public bathrooms everywhere! Gas stations, libraries, fast food chains, department stores, campgrounds, and my personal favorite - grocery stores. There are exceptions when it is good to have a few of these around: http://www.cleanwaste.com/go-anywhere-toilet-kit. Also, some spare TP and a digging device are always useful. I know some of you may have issues using public facilities, I have a close family member that cannot poop in a public restroom or even at a friends house, but you gotta get over it. I can promise that you will get used to it with time and an open mindset. Public toilets are almost always in great condition, there are exceptions, but usually a quick swipe with some extra toilet paper is all that is needed to bring it up to sanitary conditions. In the last 5 years I've used thousands of public bathrooms across the nation and have no disfiguring toilet borne diseases to speak of.

My cooler, aka Refrigerator, and doggie essentials.

Do you have a refrigerator?

I sure don’t! This will come as a surprise to most…you really don't need a refrigerator. You just need to shift your idea of how long you can leave food around and how often that you go to the grocery store. Most things that you are used to refrigerating can probably last at least 2-4 days without being inside that cold creating device. The main exception would be raw meat, only buy that if you plan on cooking it immediately. Things like yogurt, cheese, eggs, most veggies, cooked meats/sausages can all last up to a week without refrigeration.

In the last 5 years I have bought ice a handful of times, usually if I’m going into a remote area for awhile and have stocked up on perishable food or if its really hot. Some nice coolers can make a bag of ice last several days.

I’m not trying to tell you not to get a refrigerator or use ice, I just want you to know that many people live year around in their vehicles without one. If someone told me tomorrow that they would buy me a high efficiency fridge, solar panels, and a battery, I would say “Hell Yeah!” But since I would rather spend my extra money on gasoline and climbing gear, I will keep on existing without.

A view of my bed and storage below. You can see Stella enjoys looking out the window. Also of note, my bed doubles as a crash pad or vice versa. 

At night, when you are alone, do you get scared?

To preface this, I am a 6’1” and 185 lbs dude…not usually considered a prey specimen. Plus I have a pitbull that would cuddle your face off, but she looks like she would like to do something a bit more sinister. I am in pretty good shape when it comes to my level of vulnerability. But, I do feel a little scared sometimes. I don’t consider this a problem though. Even when I lived in a house I would frequently double check that the door was locked and feel a little scared sometimes. If anything, living in a van taught me that my former fears were more a relic of my Chicago upbringing than anything based in reality. In general, the places you will find yourself parking your van home will be far safer than the city that you live in now.

Overall, what to eat for dinner and where you will hike or climb the following day are much more important things to consider than your safety at night. People are generally good and you have little to worry about when surrounded by others that enjoy the outdoors.

All that said, I still recommend locking your doors at night, knowing where your keys are when you go to sleep, and keeping some sort of of threatening device near you. Better safe than sorry right?

My complete kitchen. Stovetop and vanity for storage. The rubbermaids on the shelves under the bed hold all of my dry food and vegges. The cooler contains all things that need a little extra insulation. 

How do you cook?

There are a few ways to go about this, but most people end up with some version of a two-burner stove and a propane tank. The dishes you select to eat and cook with can be as varied as the haircuts in your favorite west coast city, but just stick to the essentials e.g. pasta pot, frying pan, simmer pan, and a set of dishes for 2-4.

My personal setup is a Coleman propane stove mounted to a vanity cabinet salvaged from Habitat for Humanity (an excellent resource during any van build out). I keep a small 1 gallon propane tank inside the vanity, along with all of my pots, pans, and eating utensils. The 1 gallon propane tank usually lasts at least 2 months cooking two meals a day for two, including hot water for morning coffee. In case you were wondering, propane is around $1.50 per gallon so my annual utility bill is $9!

 

Stella always helps navigate towards safe sleeping if there is nobody else to help.

How do you find places to sleep?

This gets easier with experience, but like public toilets, the options are nearly limitless. Wal-marts, quiet side streets, rest areas, and hotel parking lots are all excellent options while traveling between destinations or while staying in a city. I’ve slept on the streets of nearly every major city in the West Coast and have never been hassled. Last week I slept two nights outside of the Moab Library. Just be discreet, and get some good light proof curtains. Oh, this might sound gross, but a bottle that you can pee in is indispensable while in the city.

Most of the time I am in a National Park, BLM, State Park, or Forest Service campground. This is probably the reason you want a van in the first place, to have a comfy place to sleep while in the outdoors. They usually allow sleeping in vehicles and have toilet facilities of some kind.

A great app for finding places to sleep is iOverlander. It works internationally and includes free and paid camping facilities. On top of that, most of the info is user submitted and includes reviews.

You can see that my laundry basket is used for a few extra items besides clothing...

How do you shower and wash your clothes?

As mentioned earlier, a slight adjustment to your understanding of clean is necessary for a comfortable nomadic existence, but you don't have to smell bad. I just paid $5 to the Recreation and Aquatic Center here in Moab for a shower. Most towns have some sort of facility with public showers and some camping areas even include hot showers. Also, you can always find a laundromat to refresh your supply of clean clothing.

A few ways to prolong the stink factor include wool clothing(especially socks), baby wipes(wow, I can’t believe I went the first 5 years without these), and essential oils. Friends houses are also great places to stop by for a clean shower or to borrow a washing machine, just don't forget to cook them a dinner or tell them some good stories from the road.

 

If I ever get cold, the discomfort is offset by morning views like this!

Do you ever get cold?

Yep, I sure do! Good thing I have lots of layers and a warm pup to hop in bed when the temps drop. If you are thinking of cold weather camping as you would when you are in a tent, adjust your thermometer! Vans, especially with a little insulation, are much warmer than a tent. Mine usually stays 5-10 degrees warmer than the lowest nighttime temps.

One of the great advantages to living this lifestyle is that you don't have to stick around when things get more wintery than you want. Just head south. I usually work a combination of the spring, summer, and fall, then, when it starts getting chilly, I take off for warmer rock. If you can't get away from chilly temps, another option is a space heater like the http://www.mrheater.com/product/heaters/buddy-series.html. You can plug your propane directly into them and they have a built in carbon monoxide sensor, so you don't put yourself to sleep for too long.

 

So, there are my essential tips for happy and frugal van life! Hope you learned something and are one paycheck or lease payment closer to deciding to move into a van. If you have any questions, please get in touch through the comments or email and I will be happy to answer. Thank you!

Slack lining with Monks

Zoom in and look at those smiles!!! From the beginning of our trip last March, one of @balance_odyssey 's goals was to get monks on a Slackline. The way it worked out was awesome! After separating in the morning with a vague plan to meetup in the next town some 100kms away I was fairly certain I'd see neither of my traveling companions again that trip. I was beyond recognition, sick with giardia for the last two weeks and trying to ride everyday had put me in a sorry state of despair. I took a biological nuke, a potent anti-parasite called Tinidazole that I happened to have left over from Nepal. Within hours I began to feel human again. Why I waited so long? A silly devotion to natural medicine that had failed me miserably in this circumstance. I began the ride in the heat of the day and soon aborted, opting for a hitchbike in a concrete truck. There were no familiar words besides, USA, between my compatriots. We exchanged smiles instead. They dropped me at a fork in the road and I slowly, diligently, and faithfully pedaled the last 15 km into the town Id hoped to find a hotel. Not thinking that my friends would be in this town I was cruising through looking for a shady spot to sit, observed by those surprised to see my particular shade of skin tone. Halfway through town I heard familiar voices and turning to my left were the smiling faces of Logan and Ray!!! Wow. We sat and ate. Replenishing my depleted body. When we were done we began the search for suitable lodging. Google predictably brought us to nowhere, but there was a man who stopped to help us. We gestured for sleep, he gestured follow me. After a hilariously slow ride through town we arrived at the monastery of these smiling monks! They ushered us and all of our gear into their meditation center. We were curious why all of our gear needed to be inside, but we were anxious to setup a Slackline, so we got to it.

Future Slackline guru. He walked the entire line during his first session. 

Most of the monks participated and all were laughing and smiling and having a grand time with this new activity and playful newcomers. One monk even walked the entire line within a couple of hours! Eventually, the head monk, a hunched and wrinkled old man who carried himself with an air of dignity came out and ended the practice for the evening.

A young monk playing shadow games with my camera while a friend watches our interaction. This ended in much laughter and smiles. 

​Afterwards we went out to eat once again, but before long that smiling monk found us with an ominous lack of expression. We returned to the monastery to find an interpreter, a local policeman, immigration official, and a secret service agent. You can imagine our confusion. They told us we couldn't stay there or anywhere in that town, and that we had to ride to the next town. We were nice, we argued, we were denied, we bartered and we were denied further...we got a tad angry. After pictures were taken of our passports and visas, we loaded up our bikes amidst a crowd from the monastery. All were present. Some were arguing with the immigration official. It was to no avail. We shook hands with each one. Their faces expressing sadness and disappointment that we had to leave. One young boy, dressed in 90s punk memorabilia and a backward cap pointed to the police and said aloud, "Motherfuckers". The head monk made a gesture of a falling tear and gave me the sincerest look of thanks and compassion I've perhaps encountered. There was more exchanged in that look and handshake then in many conversations I've had in my native language. I'll never forget those eyes, filled with thanks, pain, grace, love, and understanding. We mounted our bikes and rode 24 kilometers to the next town that had a legal place for us to stay. The secret serviceman followed us on his motorbike all the way to the edge of town, lights off, fluttering on the edge of our view. Logan shouted in annoyance at this display of power.

Logan teaching the ways. He is exceptionally good at engaging a crowd and teaching Slackline without language. 

As we rode, we expressed our concerns for the monks, that we may have gotten them in trouble. We reminisced on the welcome and the fun we had shared there. We imagined what our breakfast may have looked like and the experience of morning prayer that we missed. At was a long day, with a disappointing ending, but in between were some wonderful moments. I think of those monks often and imagine the Slackline as a part of their daily practice. The monks and boys from that community becoming adept at the mindful act Slacklife. I'm so grateful for that time there and one day, after Myanmar's governmental oppression of its people becomes a chapter in a history book, I hope to sleep on the floor of the prayer room, head pointed to Buddha.

10 Reasons Why Your First Bike Tour Should be in SE Asia

1. See the Country - First in the list and one of the most important. Traveling by bicycle is the perfect combination of speed and distance. Slow enough that you experience the land you are moving across, yet speedy enough that large distances can be covered in a short period of time. After the first week, we routinely covered 100+ kms without feeling fatigued. You will surprise yourself with the distances you can achieve. Plus, the distances in SE Asia are much shorter than your European or American counterparts. Often what would be a long, slow, unpleasant day spent aboard a bus or train could be travelled in 2-3 days on a bike. But instead of arriving tired, disheveled and ready for bed you roll into town energized, excited, ready to explore. 
2. Get to Know the locals - Second on the list and nearly important as #1. There are a lot of towns and villages in-between those perfect tourist beaches. And they are full of people excited to see YOU enjoying their countryside and their town. Interested in your chosen way of travel and ready to meet whatever needs you have. They are used to seeing those loaded buses, full of western travelers blast through their towns; so when you arrive, tired, hungry, thirsty, you've piqued their curiosity and they are ready to help. Ever wondered what you might've missed? That children's smile that was never seen? The old mans silent pondering of your panniers and 27 speed drivetrain? Oh, there is also a stark contrast between the jaded, ready to sell you anything vibe of an established tourist locale and that of a lonely village in-between. You'll find the people to be real, gracious, and kind. 
3. Minimal Gear Requirements - This is an incredible, labor saving aspect of tropical touring. No need for full panniers and duffle, a rear rack and handlebar bag will suit you just fine. Add a frame bag for extra convenience if you like. (a personal favorite of mine, check out revelatedesigns.com for awesome bags) When the weather is always warm and you are staying in hostels/hotels every night, there is no need for the heavy stuff, e.g. tents, sleeping bags, cooking equipment. This not only saves on your legs, but it still preserves the feeling that you are on vacation. When asked if I camped, I always try to dissuade people of this notion. I did bring a very lightweight foam sleeping pad and silk liner as a safety net for emergencies, but I thankfully never used them. When you cant speak the language how do you know you aren't sleeping on private property, offending local customs, or trespassing on religious territory? I heard a story from a U.S. traveller in Myanmar last year about how he slept outside of the temples in Bagan, a sacred and incredible Buddhist landmark where temples and monuments stretch as far as the eye can see, only to wake up and find one of his panniers stolen in the night. Later in my own trip, while sitting in a restaurant with a TV blaring, the news anchor informed us that the government was considering amending the visitation rules due to foreigners sleeping near temples. What better way to invite theft or misfortune then desecrating a holy site?
4. Easy Airline Baggage Requirements - A brief search of airlines baggage requirements brings a list of horrifying fees and oversized luggage charges. For whatever reason, this is generally avoided on flights to SE Asia. Take advantage of it. But always double check on the special bicycle baggage requirements. With the right airline it is free, with the wrong one it could end up costing as much as $150 each way.
5. Avoid crowded, sweaty buses and trains(except the commuter trains in large cities, those are worth a day ride) - While my experience on the only bus I took in Myanmar was glorious, a 15 hr overnight trip on a very well cooled modern chariot, I cannot say the same for my experiences in Nepal or the many horror stories I’ve heard from friends in the rest of Asia. I don't relish the death defying mountain passes or desperate attempts to play chicken with oncoming traffic, although they are great stories. Instead of weird schedules and back breaking potholes, make your own time frame and change it whenever a nice restaurant, fruit stand, or ocean vista presents itself.
6. Better for the Environment - You might want to argue with me about this one, after all, you've already burned hundreds of gallons of jet fuel to arrive at your destination, whats another few bus rides? But anyone who has choked on the exhaust of a passing tourist bus or minivan can attest to the lack of emissions testing in this area of the world. I would argue that refraining from this type of transportation can make a large difference, especially if more people brought their own along with them. 
7. Enjoy the journey AND the destination - An age old saying, because its true. Enough said? Maybe not. While this overlaps a few of the above reasons, it is still valid to highlight the enjoyment one experiences while riding through the countryside, off the beaten path. The freedom to turn down whichever path you cross, exploring when and where you choose. The whole while smiling and waving at passing people, participating with the land you are traveling through.
8. Earn all the food (and beer) you can eat - This cannot be overstated! A good portion of the fun of traveling to foreign lands is eating, right? What better way to get the most of this than burning thousands of calories every day? Assuming you are riding a decent amount, you can literally eat as much as you want. Its amazing! This includes all of that delicious beer as well, even tastier because you've earned it.
9. Have a proper adventure - I was intimidated to not know where we where going to wind up each evening. We didn't have a single reservation for 25 days/nights of cycling through Myanmar, most times we weren't even sure if there would be a legal place for us to sleep, but somehow it always worked out. Oh, there was that one time the Secret Service kicked us out of a Monastery and we had to ride 20 km at 10PM to the next town with a legal tourist hotel, but that too is an excellent memory. Not knowing opens you up to all sorts of new experiences, ones you would never have if you had a plan every day. This ended up being one of the most transformative aspects of the trip, being open and accepting to changing circumstances and letting things work out.
10. Tourist Infrastructure - Last but not least, the tourist infrastructure of most asian countries is unparalleled and inexpensive. Foreigners have been touring these countries for decades and they are ready for you nearly everywhere. Don't expect plush pillows and hot tubs, but you can rest assured that somewhere within pedaling distance lies your next home for the evening and if not, someone will always pick you up and bring you there. 

This is one of those moments you would miss on the bus. Crashing a young couples wedding during the heat of the day. They laid out a massive feast for us and then entertained us for a few hours at which point it was clear we should move on. Awesome experience.

We had google maps to thank for this amazing shortcut on 20 kms of amazing gravel. It unexpectadly took us through some of the least developed country we saw. 

The joys of hitchbiking! We actually did this fairly often, whenever the temps were unbearable or the day was winding down we could always catch a ride to the next town within a few minutes.

Graciously running into the Andaman Sea after a long, hot climb over the coastal mountains.

Young monks praying at the Shwedagon Pagoda

I hope you enjoyed reading and that I might have gotten you psyched to start planning your first bike tour. Look for my next post to detail some basic gear necessities and what to expect on an average riding day. For any specific questions, comment below.